Sprocket & 520 chain conversion

[kekoa]

Can anyone help me on this mod? I don't even know what brands to get or where to get them installed?

If anyone has a hookup on parts or contact, please let me know.

I guess I'm going -1 front and +2 or 3 rear :dunno

[RC-5Juan]

How big is your bike? I would not put a 520 on a liter-bike.

[kekoa]

How big is your bike? I would not put a 520 on a liter-bike.

no liter bike here. i have a 600rr. do you even have to change the chain with a sprocket swap or is more bling factor??

[RC-5Juan]

Its always a good idea to change rear sprocket and chain together. A worn chain will wear out a rear sprocket quickly, and a worn sprocket will wear out a new chain quickly. I believe AFAM sells 520 kits that come with everything. They probably dont have the sprocket combo you are looking for though, so just buy a 520 chain and the sprocket combo you want. You can get them at www.terrapowersports.com or www.parts411.com, or you can have any shop order for you (will be cheaper online).

Install them yourself. If you can pull the rear wheel, you can install the sprockets and chain yourself. You will need a chain breaker/riveter for the chain though. I dont recommend a clip-type chain on sportbikes. Check out the 600rr forums for people who have done the mod. They can point you to the correct length of chain.

[Earl]

You realy need to do the gearing calcs for what you need, ie more RPMS in each gear, or top speed, etc...since each bikes internal gearing, and primary drive ratios are all different.

I did a spread of calcs for my old 636, and I picked -1/+2 for my application, but 0/+4 was a very CLOSE 2nd choice.

I did a complete conversion and did it right, I used Vortex sprockets and a new DID O ring chain, properly "cut" to length.

Getting the countershaft sprocket lock nut off is THE biggest pain, and you will need an impact driver to get it off. Other than that, you'll need a chain breaker and pin driver.

It's not that hard to convert, just need to know what you want, and then the tools mentioned above to do it.

[kekoa]

You realy need to do the gearing calcs for what you need, ie more RPMS in each gear, or top speed, etc...since each bikes internal gearing, and primary drive ratios are all different.

I did a spread of calcs for my old 636, and I picked -1/+2 for my application, but 0/+4 was a very CLOSE 2nd choice.

I did a complete conversion and did it right, I used Vortex sprockets and a new DID O ring chain, properly "cut" to length.

Getting the countershaft sprocket lock nut off is THE biggest pain, and you will need an impact driver to get it off. Other than that, you'll need a chain breaker and pin driver.

It's not that hard to convert, just need to know what you want, and then the tools mentioned above to do it.

thanks earl. i think I'll go vortex for the sprockets. maybe silversurver (brian) can do the install for me. :)

[nightR1der]

earl how do you figure that all out..i know your a smart guy so help me out here...it's getting time to replace the stuff on the R-1 and I think I may regear while I'm at it. probably stick w a 530 chain for me though since it's a liter eater i don't feel like going 520 and replacing the chain all the time

[Earl]

earl how do you figure that all out..i know your a smart guy so help me out here...it's getting time to replace the stuff on the R-1 and I think I may regear while I'm at it. probably stick w a 530 chain for me though since it's a liter eater i don't feel like going 520 and replacing the chain all the time

I used to do the calcs on my HP, but I found this bitchin' gearing xls spread sheet on the other site.

Go to Search (there), type in gearing, and GSXR-71 as the author. A thread from Feb 8, '04 will come up, the spread sheet is in GSXR-71's post in that thread.

I ran several combos; -1/+2, 0/+3 & +4, +1/+5, etc.....and compared the results to each other. I was after the highest speed at peak RPM in each gear, with 150 MPH as the top speed in 6th, -1/+2 worked out to be the best.

[The Sauce]

Hey that's kind of cool...i have no interest in changing my gearing right now, but i think i'll download the spreadsheet for kicks.

[Earl]

Hey that's kind of cool...i have no interest in changing my gearing right now, but i think i'll download the spreadsheet for kicks.

That spread sheet is pretty friggin' COOL! He did a Great job!:notworthy

I haven't run across anything better than that yet, that offers such a comprehensive view of what's going on with RPMs, speed, etc!

[kekoa]

That spread sheet is pretty friggin' COOL! He did a Great job!:notworthy

I haven't run across anything better than that yet, that offers such a comprehensive view of what's going on with RPMs, speed, etc!

Earl, i've spoken to a few people. I know i wanna go one down in the front, but what about the rear? i may leave it stock or go +1. i hear +2 is too much and i'll have a hard time keeping the front down. I guess i can finally whellie?? :banana j/k

[bad-mofo]

520 on a street bike or other marginal weight/performance mods (including exhausts and PCs) is an overkill. Even if you take it to the track from time to time. 520 on a stunt bike (geared for more torque) is plain stupid. Start with suspension if you've got money to burn and feel urge to mod your bike.

[Vtec44]

520 on a street bike or other marginal weight/performance mods (including exhausts and PCs) is an overkill. Even if you take it to the track from time to time. 520 on a stunt bike (geared for more torque) is plain stupid. Start with suspension if you've got money to burn and feel urge to mod your bike.

Hmm, I've always though 520 refers to the lighter chain, which will reduce rotational mass? If that's the case, then it will definitely noticeable since it will have less mass to rotate, especially with also the change in gearing (sprockets).

[kekoa]

520 on a street bike or other marginal weight/performance mods (including exhausts and PCs) is an overkill. Even if you take it to the track from time to time. 520 on a stunt bike (geared for more torque) is plain stupid. Start with suspension if you've got money to burn and feel urge to mod your bike.

shush it. just cuz u have an R1 :D :fawkdance

[Jikser]

520 set up do require more maintenance. Clean and lube mine when I change my oil...thats once a month

Changing sprockets and chain is way toooooo easy...done it many times on my bikes and others

[R6ESB]

Be honest...am I really going to notice a difference with the 520 or chould I stick with 530 for longevity (I have an 05 R6). I am going to do +3 in the rear and leave the front alone. Discuss

[Earl]

Earl, i've spoken to a few people. I know i wanna go one down in the front, but what about the rear? i may leave it stock or go +1. i hear +2 is too much and i'll have a hard time keeping the front down. I guess i can finally whellie?? :banana j/k

Sorry, I really can't say, I'm not familiar with the 600RR to give you any meaningful inputs.

I'd go with what people who have 600RRs are telling you. If you get the chance, look up that xls spread sheet and do the analyses on -1/0, -1/+1, and -1/+2.

A 520 set up is lighter and has less rotational inertia, you will feel a slight power gain "feeling," which is masked by the gearing improvement delta.

I rode Wilson's 600RR and it was well set up and a terrific ride!!!!

[Scott_R6]

I went with AFAM front and rear sprockets on my 05 R6, I did -1/+2 with a DID ERV3 chain, very happy with it.

[old wanderer]

I use the 520 chain on 2 of my Falcos and on my CBR 600. (I disagree witht the statemens not to use it on liter bikes).

For technical tracks like SOW and Thunderhill I went -1 Front and +3 rear. You really need to use the xls spread sheet and look at where you want your peak power. For the track Aprilia I kept the front the same and went up 4 in the rear. (For faster tracks just change the front as a quick change without needing to change the chain).

When I get home from Peru next weekend I will post a xls but you need your owners manual to look up the transmission ratios and plug them in. Mine is for an Aprilia. It will also allow you to program the shift points (rpm) and give you the min/max speed in each gear as you shift up/down.

Yes you can really feel the diffrence.